STENCIL
REMOVAL & SCREEN RECLAIMING
RECLAIMING
A SCREEN:
The same
screen can be used many times for different print jobs. Thorough
removal of stencil material (inks, etc.) ensures that no residues
are left on the screen which could impair subsequent adhesion
of the next stencil, and effect future print quality. Follow these
steps for reclaiming a screen:.
1)
REMOVING TAPE AND INK
After
you have removed all the tape and excess ink from the screen,
you will need to clean the ink residues off the stencil. A few
examples of different wash-ups are:
Water:
For water based inks: following by 2000 Green for any difficult
to remove ink remaining especially if it has dried in the screen.
2000
Green: A biodegradable cleaner made from nature's own ingredients.
A safe and environmentally friendly wash-up for both plastisol
and water based inks. Cleans up adhesives easily (great for T-shirt
pallets)! Wipes clean with a damp cloth. Removes tar, grease,
grime as well as many other inks and paints. Mineral Spirits:
For plastisols. More toxic, less environmentally friendly and
safe than 2000 Green.
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Apply
2000 Green with spray bottle
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Work
in with a brush or sponge
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Wash
away with water
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2)
REMOVING STENCIL MATERIAL
The next
step involves removing all traces of stencil material. For stencils
such as Duracoat and Autosol emulsions, Capillex films, Novastar
and Autocut Amber, you would use Screen Strip.
SCREEN
STRIP:
This powder
mixes with water, in the usual proportion of 100g to 10 litres
of water, depending on the water-resistancy of the stencil. Duracoat,
Autosol Fast, Autosol Plus Clear, Capillex XR will need a more
concentrated solution of perhaps 100g to 5 litres of water.
Procedure:
Apply
a small amount to both sides of the screen with a soft brush or
cloth. After two to three minutes, the emulsion coating will have
dissolved and the mesh can be washed with a strong spray of water.
NEVER ALLOW SCREEN STRIP TO DRY IN THE SCREEN.
3)
REMOVING STAINS OR GHOST IMAGES WITH AUTOHAZE
When the
stencil has been removed, ink hazes or ghost images may still
be apparent. These should be removed if they block the meshes
when held up to the light. For this purpose, use Autohaze, an
alkaline paste that provides a highly effective method of removing
stubborn stains and the hardest residues of emulsion or ink from
polyester meshes. Procedure: Apply Autohaze to both sides of a
wet mesh with a brush. Cover the stained areas in a circular motion.
Leave on the screen for 6 to 8 minutes. If left longer, the mesh
could be damaged and start to rip. Rinse off with a gentle spray
of water, followed by a stronger spray.
4)
ROUGHENING THE MESH WITH AUTOPREP
It is
necessary to roughen the mesh with Autoprep periodically, usually
every fifth or sixth stencil. You may want to use Autoprep more
frequently when utilizing Capillex films.
5)
DEGREASING THE MESH WITH UNIVERSAL MESH PREP
The last
and very necessary step to Screen Reclaiming. Always finish reclaiming
with an application of Universal Mesh Prep.
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Safety
First!
Remember to
always wear gloves, goggles, a particle mask and a protective
smock or overcoat during stencil removal procedure to
protect skin, lungs and eyes.
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REVIEW
- SCREEN RECLAIMING
- Use
2000 GREEN to remove plastisol residues and difficult spots
of Aquatex.
- Use
Screen Strip to remove stencil material.
- Use
Autohaze to remove ghost images if apparent.
- Use
Autoprep if necessary (fifth or sixth use of screen).
- Use
Universal Mesh Prep every time for degreasing.